Formerly, 20 percent of all diamonds were considered suitable for jewelry, having been of ''Gemstone quality.'' The rest were sold to the industry as so-called industrial diamonds to be used for drilling crowns, milling machines, cutting wheels,etc. Since 1983, another 20 percent have been classified as''almost gemstone quality'' and are cut mainly in India. The smallest diamonds and diamonds of lesser quality can be worked and offered to buyers other than the strictly controlled diamond market.
In the valuation of faceted diamond, color, clarity, cut, and carat are taken into consideration. These four c's decide the value of a diamond.
Grading for Color Diamonds are found in all colors. Mostly they are yellowish. In the grading, these are evaluated together with the purely colorless diamonds. The rarer strong colors (green, red, blue, and yellow), the so-called fancy color, are valued individually and fetch collector's prices. Brown and black diamonds also occur.
Formerly, terms and definitions in grading for color were not uniform and often confusing, until an international agreement was reached to cover the so-called "yellow series.'' This was publish in 1970 as RAL 560 A5E. Since then, various institute of America (GIA), the International Diamond Council (IDC), and the Confederation International de la Bijouterie, Joaillerie, Orfevreie des Diamants, Perles, et Pierres (CIBJO). Today, the IDC regulation, written in English, are accepted worldwide. In the United State, the GIA system is most commonly used.
The old grading terms, the ''Old Terms,'' should not be used anymore. In fact, however, they are still in usage in the gemstone trade.
Experts use standard sample collections for consistent, comparison color grading.
Grading for Clarity In Germany only the inner perfection is understood as ''clarity,'' while in the United States and in Scandinavia aspects of the quality of the outer finish are taken into consideration. Enclosed minerals, cleavages, and growth lines affect clarity; they are collectively called inclusions, but formerly were called ''flaws'' or ''carbon spots.'' Polished diamond without any inclusion under a 10 x loupe are considered ''flawless.'' Inclusions visible with larger are not taken into account for grading.
Grading for Cut To grad for cut, the type and shape of cut, proportion, and symmetry as well as outer marks are taken into consideration. In Germany the normal cut is the ''fine brilliant cut'' in the rest of Europe the ''Scandinavian-standard brilliant.'' In the United States, the only widely used cut grading system is that of the American Gem Society, based on the ''AGS Ideal Cut.''